Wrist and Elbow Training for Climbers: Part 3 - Warm-Up and Projects

If you've learned anything from our prior 2 videos, we hope that it's the importance of training your wrist extensors to help prevent wrist and elbow injuries, and improve performance. We can take this a step further by applying these principles to your warm-up, and if need be, to your projects. Check out the video to find out how! 

Wrist and Elbow Training for Climbers: Part 2 - Hangboarding

If you're lazy like me, you'll want to know how you can train both your climbing muscles and your opposition muscles at the same time. You've come to the right place! We'll show you how to keep your opposition muscles engaged while training your principle gripping muscles on the hangboard. Have a look and share your thoughts!

Wrist and Elbow Training for Climbers - Part 1

In this series, we'll explore how to get our wrists and forearms strong so that we can avoid pesky wrist and elbow injuries, and improve performance on crimps, slopers and pinches. The first video explores wrist positioning in a farmer's carry. The principles we discuss here can be applied anytime you lift a weight off the ground. In our upcoming videos we'll discuss how you can apply this to other typical climbing exercises, like pull-ups and hangboarding. 

Have a look, share your thoughts, and spread the word! 



Core Stability Series Part 3: The Push-Up

In my two prior posts, we talked about how to integrate your core stabilizers into exercises used to train for climbing. The first looked at how to integrate your shoulders and anterior trunk muscles into your deadhang - see here. This can be a great tool to help you train static stability.

We then progressed by incorporating stability into our pull-up. The pull-up is a great way of training dynamic core stability (i.e. stability through movement) - see here.

In both of these exercises the feet are doing absolutely nothing. This is contrary to how we usually climb: we want to maintain foot contact as much as possible. We need a way of progressing anterior trunk and shoulder stability with both hand and foot contact. The push-up can help you do this.

Check out the video below to learn how to integrate anterior trunk and shoulder stability in the push-up.  

All of the exercises we’ve discussed have emphasized anterior trunk engagement. These exercises are great at getting your feet high on the wall, or preventing them from pulling you off the wall when they cut. What about maintaining tension when your feet are on the wall, or pulling your hips into the wall? This requires a whole new set of muscles. Check out next week’s article and video to find out more.

This article was first published in Squamish Climbing Magazine on Sept 28th, 2016

Core Stability Series Part 2: Pull-Ups

Last week we discussed how you can start to integrate your core stabilizers with a basic exercise like the deadhang. Check out this article for a quick recap. In integrating your shoulder and anterior trunk muscles within your deadhang you’re training static core stability.

Consider static stability to be any exercise that engages your stabilizers without additional movement generated by your prime movers (the larger muscles in your body responsible for moving your limbs). Another example of a static stability exercise would be the classic plank exercise. You move your body into a neutral posture and hold that position. The stabilizers stay on for as long as you hold that position.

In climbing, you need both static and dynamic stability. Dynamic stability is your ability to control the joints in your body while the prime movers are carrying you up the wall. In other words, stability through movement. Holding a plank or simply training your stabilizers on a hangboard isn’t enough.

Consider last week’s climber who has just thrown for a dyno and their hands have landed on the finishing holds. As their body falls back towards the ground, the prime movers are working to slow the momentum of their body while the stabilizers are working to keep the joints safe. This is an example of dynamic stability. You train dynamic stability by keeping your stabilizers engaged through movement-based exercises.

The pull-up is a great place to start and a good means of progressing the hangboard exercise. Check out the video below to better understand how you can start to train dynamic core stability through pull-ups.

This article was first published in Squamish Climbing Magazine on Sept. 12, 2016.