Releasing the Hips

As requested, this one goes out to everyone with tight hips.  Check out these exercises to help release common areas of tightness. Give them a shot and share your thoughts. When rolling out  it's normal to feel tenderness. If you experience significant or lingering pain talk to a professional.

Thanks to Michael Apps for demonstrating the exercises. Check him out at Highland Sport and Spine Physiotherapy for injury prevention tips for skiers. 

Preventing and Managing Belayer's Neck

If you've ever experienced headaches, neck pain, or muscle tension after belaying, this video is for you. Have a look for pointers on how to maintain good posture while belaying, and a quick stretch to prevent tension from building in the neck. As always, you should avoid this exercise if you experience any pain doing it. See a professional to help determine the source of the pain. 

 

I appreciate your feedback. Post your thoughts below. 

Editor's note: No climbers were hurt or left free soloing in this video. 

By William Bateman 

2 Key Shoulder Exercises for Climbers

Climbers prone to shoulder injuries have two things in common: a stiff ribcage and weak shoulder stabilizers. Check out the video below for 2 exercises to help address these issues. You can incorporate these as part of your dynamic warm-up or before starting your training program. 

A word of caution: if you experience pain doing any of these exercises they’re not appropriate. Seek the help of a professional to understand the source of your pain. 


By William Bateman 

Getting Warmed up for Climbing

Check out this article written by Seth Lytton. It provides some good ideas for how to properly warm-up before climbing. Most importantly, it mentions the importance of mimicking the more aggressive moves on your project when you're warming-up. In other words, if you know there's a massive drop knee in the middle of the crux, you should be practicing drop knees on your warm-ups. 

I will say one thing: avoid dead-hanging on holds to warm-up your shoulders. Shoulders are inherently lax joints and the last thing they need is for you to hang on your arms loosely. Seth doesn't recommend doing this - he simply says to hang on good holds. The concern is that this encourages disengagement of your shoulders. You can prevent this from happening by keeping your elbows turned in while hanging or doing pull-ups. Check out my video bellow to help you understand. It's a repost but hopefully you'll get the idea.

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/training-beta-how-to-warm-up-for-route-climbing

 

By William Bateman 

Explain Pain by Lorimer Moseley and David Butler

Pain is an incredibly complex phenomenon that deserves explaining. Hence Explain Pain, by Lorimer Moseley and David Butler. This book helps clarify the who, what, where, why, when and how of pain in an easy to understand and interactive format. If you're a chronic pain sufferer this resource should be your bible. Have a gander!

http://www.noigroup.com/en/Category/EP

By William Bateman

Shoulder Form for Climbers

I see countless shoulder injuries in climbers. Most of them can be attributed to weaknesses in their external rotators and scapular stabilizers, and over developed internal rotators. A simple way of thinking about this in your climbing is to keep those elbows IN! If you're winging, you're hurtin'.

Check out the video bellow to get an idea of what I'm talking about. It's not meant to be a training video simply a demonstration of good shoulder form. See whether you can apply this to your training so that it becomes more natural on the sharp end.  

By William Bateman 

Office Work

Office work is surprisingly hard on our bodies. In fact some might say sitting is the new smoking:

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/health-and-fitness/fitness/would-you-do-this-at-work/article17945720/ 

If you can convince your employer to invest in your health, have your boss look into standing desks. Slim chance for most, I know. At the very least set up your work desk to take the load off your joints. Have a look at the Mayo Clinic's How to Guide for some helpful tips. 

http://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-living/adult-health/in-depth/office-ergonomics/art-20046169

By William Bateman

 

Opioid Use for Pain Relief - The Good and the Bad

I get a lot of clients who take opioids for pain relief. There are a lot of things to consider when deciding to take these meds. Have a look at the videos bellow to get a better understanding of the benefits and drawbacks of opioid use. Be sure to talk to your doc before making any decisions on starting or stopping a prescription.

By William Bateman